Dag 43 – 57. Phuket & Chiang Mai – Thailand.

16 mei – 25 mei: Phuket

En van het Engels gaan we toch weer over op het Nederlands. Lang zitten dubben, maar in het Nederlands kan ik toch iets beter en soepeler uit de voeten dan in het Engels.

Terugkijkend op ons verblijf in Phuket beseffen wij ons dat dit het langste verblijf in een stad tot nu toe is – een record – 10 dagen. Te lang, als je het ons vraagt. Gelukkig hadden we de duurste stad van Thailand uit gekozen om hier eens lekker 10 dagen te vertoeven ;). Na het bezoekje aan het Bangkok ziekenhuis voor Kas zijn been waren we allebei blij dat we naar Phuket waren gereisd. Kas is toch een tikkie leuker met 2 benen en nu kreeg hij eindelijk de juiste medische zorg.

Ook het hotel was een bijzonder aangename verrassing. We hadden een ‘standaard’ kamer geboekt in het Chanalai Flora Resort maar werden verrast door manager Joy met een upgrade. En wat voor één! Een eigen balkon, een kingsize bed, een stortdouche en een bad.. Wát een luxe voor deze twee arme backpackers!

Naast om de dag een bezoekje aan het ziekenhuis, was Kas niet heel mobiel te noemen. Daarom was ik vooral bij het zwembad te vinden. Je kent het wel: beetje boekjes lezen, zwemmen..

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Zondag voelde Kas zich goed genoeg voor een dagje cultureel Phuket en dus boekten we een tour via ons hotel. We hadden specifiek gevraagd voor een tour waarbij je niet teveel hoeft te lopen en het was dus ook niet echt een verrassing dat we in een busje vol bejaarden werden gezet. We bezochten de Big Buddha, de Chinese tempel, de Cashwenutfactory, de Honeyfactory en reden naar een prachtig view point. Onderweg maakten we ook nog een stop bij een baby olifantje. Toeristen konden de baby eten geven en als dank deed ze een paar kunstjes. Dat het arme beestje aan de ketting zat en slechts 1 meter bewegingsruimte had scheen de touristen niets te interesseren.

Maandag kregen we het goede nieuws te horen dat de dokter de wonden ging hechten. Zo blij we op het moment zelf waren – want dat betekende dat we weer verder konden met onze reis – zo veel pijn had Kas in de avond. Gelukkig konden we elkaar dinsdag de hele dag vervelen in bed, want ik had een voedselvergiftiging opgelopen maandagavond. Ik wist van gekkigheid niet meer wat voor en achter was en als twee zielige poppetjes realiseerden we ons dat dit wel het ideale hotel is om ziek te zijn – beter dan op een dorm met 12 mensen;).

Woensdag waren we gelukkig allebei weer redelijk op de been en vlogen we in de middag naar Chiang Mai.

25 mei tm 31 mei: Chiang Mai. 

In Chiang Mai waren Kyle (Canada) en Susan (New York) twee van onze kamergenoten. De enthousiaste New Yorkse foodie nam ons gelijk mee op sleeptouw en zo kwam het dat we op onze eerste avond al 4 ‘High Recommended Places’ hadden uitgeprobeerd. Ze zeggen wel eens dat NYC de stad is die nooit slaapt, maar ik krijg zo de indruk dat hetzelfde geldt voor haar inwoners. Wanneer onze laatste hap nog in onze mond zit, stond Susan alweer jubelend op om naar de volgende plek te huppelen. Ze ratelde vrolijk door – vooral over zichzelf – en vertelde van alles over de stad. Niet dat ze er al vaak is geweest overigens, dit is haar eerste keer en ze is diezelfde middag aangekomen. Dat ze vooral over zichzelf praat, verbaast ons allang niet meer. Reizigers – en dan met name uit de USA en Canada – praten dolgraag over zichzelf en hun ervaringen, maar weten na 2 dagen nog helemaal niets over ons.

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We bezochten hier 2 verschillende tempels. Doi Suthep en Wat Umong. De eerste is een bekende, grote tempel boven op de berg en is indrukwekkend mooi en erg toeristisch. De tweede is iets minder bekend en we waren dan ook de enige aanwezigen. Deze tempel is anders dan alle anderen die wij hebben gezien, deze is namelijk ondergronds en wordt niet meer onderhouden. De tuin staat vol vervallen buddha beelden. Lopend door de tunnels, langs de buddha beelden en door het bos, heeft deze tempel een bijzondere, sprookjesachtige sfeer.

In Nederland ben ik dol op de food festivals en zo blij als een kind was ik toen we een look-a-like Rollende keukens tegen kwamen. Tientallen foodtrucks, lampjes in de bomen, live muziek en ze hadden sushi. Súshi. Kun je je voorstellen hoe blij ik was?

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Vrijdag mochten we na 1,5 maand éindelijk weer in de keuken staan. Met iets andere ingrediënten dan ik normaal gewend ben, gingen we aan de slag met een aantal Thaise recepten! Op een organic farm, tussen alle verse groenten en fruit, kregen we les van de hilarische Wass. Thaise mensen spreken de ‘r’ uit als een ‘l’, dat zijn we inmiddels wel gewend, maar dat maakte de opmerkingen van Wass extra grappig.

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Als echte koffielovers moésten we een koffie drinken bij Ristr8tto en dus begonnen wij ons weekend hier. Degene die hier de koffietjes bereidt is de latte art kampioen van de wereld en maakt de mooiste en lekkerste koffietjes. De koffiekaart is dan ook indrukwekkend te noemen. De buurt waar Ristr8tto zich bevindt is rondom Nimmanhaemin Road, is een uur lopen van het oude centrum – waar wij verblijven – en is een verrassend hippe wijk vol met leuke restaurantjes. Dat deze wijk amper genoemd wordt in de naslagwerken verbaast ons, het is heerlijk om hier een dagje rond te lopen en te genieten van de mooie huizen en hippe barretjes. We sloten de dag af met een wedstrijdje Thai boksen. Kas wilde hier dolgraag naartoe en ik was nog niet helemaal overtuigd. Ik zag horrorbeelden voor me van in het rondvliegende tanden en bloederige gezichten, gelukkig viel dat wel mee ;-).

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Iets waar ik al een tijdje naar uitkeek was het bezoek aan de olifanten. In Phuket hadden we al kennis gemaakt met iets waar ik bang voor was: olifantentoerisme. Toeristen die op olifanten rijden, olifanten aan de ketting, baby olifantjes die kunstjes doen voor fruit en slechts een meter bewegingsruimte hebben. Dat dit heel onnatuurlijk is en dat de olifanten er slecht en ongelukkig uit zien schijnen veel toeristen niet te zien en dus is het een fenomeen dat blijft bestaan. Wij bezochten Elephant National Park waar mishandelde olifanten worden opgevangen, de juiste medische zorg krijgen en vrij kunnen rondlopen. De dag begon met een vrij heftige introductie. Een documentaire liet ons zien waar de opgevangen olifanten vandaan komen en hoe ze behandeld zijn. We zagen olifanten vastgeketend aan bomen, zelfs de slurf was vastgemaakt. Olifanten die werden doodgeschoten om het baby’tje mee te kunnen nemen. Ruggen zó verbrijzeld omdat toeristen daar zo nodig op moeten zitten – ja, op wat voor manier je ook op de olifant zit, het doet pijn! Wanneer olifanten niet doen wat ze opgedragen wordt, volgt er een haak op het hoofd of oor. Olifanten hebben net zo’n gevoelige huid als de mens – misschien nog wel gevoeliger – kun je nagaan wat een pijn en verdriet deze dieren hebben. We hebben alle vormen olifanten gezien; met halve pootjes door de landmijnen, zonder ogen, zonder oren en volledig onder de littekens. Wij mochten helpen met het wassen, mochten ze voeren en we hebben úren lang naar ze zitten kijken. En nu nooit meer zoiets geks doen hé, anders ga ik ruzie met je maken.

Vlak voor ons vertrek naar Chiang Rai werden de hechtingen van Kas eruit gehaald, weer een stapje in de goede richting! ‘S avonds hebben we dit gevierd met een biertje – want na 18 dagen antibiotica mocht ‘ie eindelijk weer – tijdens de Ladyboy Cabaret Show. We hadden onze trip naar Chiang Mai niet beter kunnen afsluiten. Wat een avond. Gelukkig voor de vrouwen hadden deze ladyboy’s het vooral gemund op de mannen en deze werden vol enthousiasme in de ballen geknepen, op de mond gezoend en het podium opgetrokken.

Chiang Mai, wat ben je leuk. En verdorie, ik ga je echt een beetje missen.

Day 30 – 43. Koh Lipe, Krabi & Koh Phi Phi – Thailand.

3 May – 11 May: Koh Lipe.

The beauty of the island Koh Lipe is something you can’t picture or discribe. The first 6 nights we slept in a beautiful bamboo hut on the beach. The first thing you see when you wake up is the beach and the sea.

We spent a whole day snorkling with Madelon & Shirley – we’ve met those Dutch girls in the bus to Cameron Highlands and they were our neighbours on the beach;). It was beautifull. So much coral and so many fishes. Something we didn’t expect was the presence of só many Asian people at the same snorkling place. The only problem was the swimming part: they couldn’t. You saw dozens of Asian people with lifejackets holding their guide. It was hilarious.

Kas and I were  happy that we took our surfshirts. The sun is so dangerous. After snorkling for not even an hour (and we did use suncream 50+) our back was totally burned.

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Friday was an exciting day. Kas wanted to do the Padi course and he was prepared to do this alone. I tried diving many times, but I always had equalize problems. I gave it a last shot. Frans – our Dutch instructor – gave me tips and tricks and before I knew.. I was 5 meters underwater without a problem. So we decided to do the Padi course together. We did 2 open water dives four days in a row and everyday some theory. Sunday we had the exam of all the theory – of course we passed;-) – and Monday it was time for the real exam: 2 openwater dives. It went smooth and at the end of the day we were the happy owners of our Padi!

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It were 4 full days of diving, but in the evening we had dinner at the beach, drank cocktails and met a girl who stole my heart. We were drinking beers at the Sawasdee Bar in Walking street. We were talking with the owner when a small, pretty blond haired girl with brown eyes walked in. The 7-year old daughter of the owner. Her name is Noy, born in Canada but moved to Koh Lipe with her mom when she was a baby. She plays violin, guitar and drums. She speaks fluently Thai, English and French. She speaks a bit Dutch, Spanish and Denish but she’s now learning herself Chinese. Just because it’s fun and she loves to talk with everybody. She’s not scared of anything – ‘if I’m afraid of spiders and cockroaches there’s no way I can even take a shower. No, I really love all the animals.’ – and of all the animals she loves horses the most. She has never seen a horse but when she’s older she will move to a farm with hundreds of horses. We came back to this bar many times, just to see Noy. This kid is amazingly sweet, listens very well and she’s super wise. She reminded me of Mowgli (Junglebook).
11 May – 12 May: Krabi

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It was time to say goodbye to Koh Lipe, the most beautiful island we’ve ever seen. We took the speedboat to Pakbara and the minivan to Krabi. Due to the lowseason there are no boats from Lipe to another island, so the traveltime is a bit longer than usual. In Krabi we slept in Pak-Up Hostel in a dorm with 4 other Dutchies – men, Dutch people are real travellers ;-). We had dinner at a nightmarket and had fresh fish from the barbecue – we had a whole (!) tuna for 7 euro’s.

12 May -16 May: Koh Phi Phi.
Other travellers and websites warned us for the party vibe on this island. For this reason we decided to book a room uphill and not on the beach. The room was 10 minutes from the beach and had a good price of 5 euros per night. A good deal, despite the constant drunk owner.

The first night we realized how crazy loud the music was. We heard everything in our room: goodbye sleep. They warned us for a party island, but it’s even worse. This is Chersonissos 2.0. There are só many tourists and half of them is drunk 24/7. People ordering Mojito’s and buckets at 11 in the morning is quite normal. For woman the dresscode was clearly ‘less is more’ – girls were partying in something that was even léss then a bikini. Kas was totally fine with this dresscode though;).

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Besides this, Koh Phi Phi is a beautiful Island. The beaches are white, the sea is light blue and the local people are super friendly. On the Island you’ve many restaurants on the beach and every night Koh Phi Phi gave us magical sunsets. The sunset amazed us everytime again and we enjoyed it many times with some drinks in the sand. Unfortunately we could’t do the dive on Phi Phi that we hoped for due to an infection on Kas his knee.

16th of May: Phuket.

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We arrived in Phuket and took a minivan straight to the Bangkok Hospital because Kasper still had the infection after the treatments on Phi Phi. Before we knew the doctor brought Kas to the OR and cutted the wounds open. “Come here, take a look” the doctor said to me. I didn’t know if this was a good plan but I was too curious. Ugh, I won’t describe it and will spare you the details, but it was the most nasty thing I’ve ever (if you are curious you can look at the picture above, but I warned you;)). The doctor smiled and laughed about my face. I think I was a bit pale.. The doctor told Kas to take some rest and come back every day to clean the wounds.

Luckily we stay in a beautiful room in a great resort. We booked a normal room but because of the lowseason – and also because they feel sorry for Kas – they upgraded us to the most beautiful room. We are sleeping like a prins and princess and it’s a good place for Kas to get better. We will stay here for at least a week, we will not leave untill Kas is recovered.

For now we make the best of it. We spent some time at the pool, watch Netflix and I buy as much icecreams as he wants. Hopefully it helps so we can continue our trip soon.

Day 24-30. Cameron Highlands & Georgetown – Malaysia

27th of April – 30th of April: Cameron Highlands

The drive to Cameron Highlands was faster and smoother then we expected. With 2 Dutch girls we traveled to the beautiful village that’s famous because of the tea estates. We didn’t see many Dutch people yet but this changed as soon as we arrived in Cameron Highlands. They were everywhere.

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We stayed at Fahter’s Guesthouse which is a clean and peaceful place to stay. And good news for me; the restaurant next door served fruits with yogurt in the morning.

We arrived at the end of the day so after a refreshing shower we looked for a restaurant called ‘Gossip Corner’. I red in the hostel something about this place and they sell the biggest burgers (as big as your plate). We had lots of Indian food so we would love a Western meal. Unfortunately we couldn’t find it and the people told us this place doesn’t exist anymore. Poor Kas, he was so much looking forward to this burger.. At Juice Delight – where they have the best fruitbowls and fresh juices – we saw a hamburger on the menu. After a while the owner served us the hamburgers with a big smile. The burger was HUGE. I looked at the owner and saw something on his shirt that surprised me, and made me smile; ‘Gossip Corner’. We found it. The burger was good but we didn’t like the bones in the chickenburger – yes, that’s how the Asian make the Western food.

The next day we had a relaxingday. We had a coffee at intercontinal coffee, did some reading and decide to do a 2,5 hour hike. It was a perfect hike with lots of naughty monkeys who joined us.The dinner we had this evening was ‘t very succesful either. We ate some Indianfood but as soon as I found a cochlea in my noodles I wasn’t hungry anymore.

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Friday we booked a full day tour. A crazy Malasian guide picked us up and together with a family from Singapore we drove 1,5 hours. We did a 2 hour hike through the woods but: with a mission. We were looking for the Rafflesia flower. The largest individual flower on earth. The flower lives only 7 days and because of this it’s very difficult to find. But we found it! This flower grows to a diameter of around one meter but the greatest measurement is 105 centimeters and weights up to 11kg. We had lunch at (again) an Indian restaurant – not something Kas and I suggested but our guide brought us here. Lunch was a buffet and especially the thousand flies liked it – bleh. We also visited the largest black tea manufacturer of Malaysia, BOH. We ended the day at the Strawberry farm where we picked our own strawberry’s – our ‘safe’ dinner for that night.

30th of April – 3 May: Georgetown-Penang.

Saturday morning it was time to change the greenlandscape for a city in Penang; Georgetown. It was a 5 hour drive and 20 minutes by ferry to get there. We traveled together with a Dutch historyteacher who is on his way now for half a year. Kas and I are fascinated by some backpackers who travel by theirselves. Sometimes it might be helpful to have an instruction book ‘how to communicate with a backpacker who travels alone’.

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Penang was the first British settlement in Southeast Asia and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The enclave consists of colonial architecture built during the heyday of British rule over the Straits Settlements, mixed with Chinese shophouses, five foot ways and places of worship of various religions. George Town is awarded the UNESCO listing for its unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia. Walking from the ferry to 80’s Guesthouse (our hostel) was already inspiring.

We started with a lovely coffee and some real (home made) yogurt at Mugshot. We had dinner at the Red Foodcourt, a place where lots of restaurant sell different types of food. They have everything. From sushi to wraps to real local food.

At 80’s guesthouse we booked 2 nights in a mixed dorm. Not only to safe some money, also to meet people easily. Sleeping in a dorm is not really good for your sleep though. Everybody walked in and out and the most spectacular thing that night were our 2 drunk roomies. The UK girls couldn’t barely walk, so getting up the bunk was a big fight.

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Sunday we spend the whole day in the city watching all the streetart. There’s so much to see in this city, you don’t even know where to look. The street art is 3D, not because of the painting itself, but because the artists used the ‘real world’ in their painting. For example the chair, the windows, the street..

We asked a local where we could have the best and cheapest beers – Georgetown is expensive and the beers have the same price as back home. He told us to go to Antarabangsa. A place where you can buy a beer for 4RM (1 euro) and they have plastic tabels and chairs outside on the street. This is the place where all the locals come together. Sunday we decided to go there and before we knew, we were surrounded by a group of people from all over the world. An older man from New Zealand, 2 guys from India, 2 locals, one man from France and 2 guys from Holland. That one beer became two and before we knew a couple of hours passed and it was 8.30. The Dutch guys really wanted to see the important Dutch football game of Ajax but beiing in Georgetown makes it pretty hard. But they did it. Half an hour later we were in a bar drinking beers, eating pizza and watching Ajax. Can you imagine how happy Kas was? It became a long, long night with lots of fun and a ‘few’ more beers..

I really hoped for some good sleep that night. I had some alcohol in my body so I thought that would help a bit. But we had 4 new roomies – oh yeah, I was the lucky girl sleeping with 5 guys in 1 room – and one of them was snorring súper loud. Think about someone snorring súper loud and multiply this with 10. That’s how loud it was. On top of that the guy next to me had a bad dinner and had a very bad stomach.. It was a horrible night.

Monday morning we woke up with a small hangover and both super tired due to our roomies. We spend our day drinking coffee, we saw some more streetart ánd Kas was looking for a house in GT. Unforunately the housew were more expensive than we thought (ánd hoped ;-)). After the best dinner ever at Mews Café we went to bed early because something exciting was waiting for us the next day….. We were going to Koh Lipe! A bit sad leaving this great city – if you ever have the change to go to GT please do! – but SO excited to go to the beach. We are both still in a ‘hurry’ and the flow from back home is still there. So we really hope to get the ‘chill modus’ somewhere on the beach.

We decided to stay till Tuesday on this beautiful Island and writing this from our hammock With a view on the beach I can tell you it’s the best decision so far. The only thing that will be a bit boring is the next blog…. So prepare yourselves ;-).

Day 17-24. Kuala Lumpur & Taman Negara – Malaysia

20th of April – 24th of April: Kuala Lumpur

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Hello KL! The drive from the airport to the hostel was beautiful – it’s all green :-). Arriving in Backhome hostel felt a bit like coming home. The staff was amazingly friendly, the room clean and the showers the bést. On top of that they’ve a small garden and a kitchen. A good thing about the hostel is also the café next door; Lokl. At Lokl you have the best food, coffee and homemade ice tea’s. Kas ate here the best burger he ever had.

One thing I didn’t realize about Malaysia is that it’s really Islamitic. We traveled a lot in KL with the underground and in some trains you’ve seperate cabins for woman. And in shops for woman, man are not allowed near the fittingrooms.

We spend a lot of our time in KL in 2 buildings you actually want to avoid; the hospital and the Thai Ambassy. We visited the hospital three times because of my tickbite. The docter warned us for a red circle around the bite and one morning this red circle appeared. With some help of my Dutch doctor and the doctor at the hospital I finally had some good and heavy antibiotics for the coming 10 days.

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We also went 3 times to the Thai Ambassy to arrange a Thai Visa for 2 months. Everybody at the ambassy was well prepared. Except Kas and me. We only took our passports. We forgot our passport photo’s, didn’t have a proof of our stay in Thailand and we didn’t have a busticket either (because we didn’t book anything). But we managed it. After 3 days we are the happy owners of a 2 months Thai visa.

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In KL we visited the Batu Caves, a hindoe temple in a huge cave. The golden statue is impressive and so is the cave itself. The monkeys here were also an attraction. They eat all your food and are really, really naughty.

If you say KL, you say the Petronas Towers. You can take a look inside and go up to enjoy the view from above. Entrence was 20 euros each and we decided it wasn’t worth it. We have a budget and we can only spend the money once. So we walked into a small park with a small pool. With our feet in the water and the Petronas towers in front of us we knew we did the right thing. Sometimes the best things don’t cost anything.

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Near our hostel there’s a big Local market which we visited on our last day. Lots of foodtrucks and so a happy me. I loved it! The coffee place Kopies was my favourite. This guy makes the most lovely coffees I’ve ever seen. I ordered a frappuccino and it includes every sweet you can imagine: m&m’s, cookies, marshmellows.. It made my day :).

24th of April – 27th of April: Taman Negara.

Time to leave KL for Taman Negara. We booked this trip with HAN tours. A touroperatour in Kuala Lumpur – which was the most brilliant organisation we’ve ever had. When we arrived at the hostel – a hostel from HAN – they didn’t know ánything about our trip. What time the jungle tour started this evening? No clue. Dinner? She thought somewhere around 6, but it could also be 7. Or something. Our other questions she answered with ‘yes’, I think that was the easiest way ;-).
We slept in a dorm, with beds covered in plastic and the showers were full of insects, including cockroaches. We shared the room with Anna. Anna loved this organisation so much, she decided to write a complaint of 1,5 A-4. Dinner surprised her the most; she had rice with fried chicken three days in a row. And so did we.

Anyhow! We found the jungle tour by night and we were both pretty excited. So were the 3 guys we met; Bart(NL), Julian(DE) and Aron (UK). Well, the hostel was a big joke, but this was even worse. We walked on a path with eleven people and sometimes our guide shined her torchlight on an insect. This last part was intresting, but we all hoped for a night full of adventures – as they promised us.

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Luckely the big adventure was still to come, a 2 day tour in the old rainforrest with a night in a cave. In the morning we packed our backpacks with all the campinggear. We first made a boattour of 2 hours and covered ourselves with sunblock. Unfortunately sunblock 50+ for 2 hours on the water was not enough to protect us.

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We had a little swim in the river and then the real tour started; the 6 our hike. We did this tour with 2 groups – also the 3 guys joined. It was so beautiful but at the same time pretty heavy. I think it was a combination of the full backpack (15 kg), the freaking high temperature (the windchill was above the 40 degrees), the heavy antibiotics and I also had my monthly party (dammit!). Luckily I had my favourite Kas with me to talk me through it and to carry some of the bottles water from my backpack. Around 6 we arrived at the cave – we looked like we just jumped into the water, we were all só sweaty. But it was worth it. The cave was incredible big, full of bats and the concert of all the animals in the jungle was awesome.

After dinner we noticed a leech on Kas’ foot. Not that bad, but it kept on bleeding. Our guide showed us a small plant. If you put it on your wound it will stop bleeding. And so it did. The miracles of the nature :-).

At midnight we woke up because of a loud animal noise and the sound of someone eating. The porcupines arrived. We hang all the food we had on a rock, so the rats couldn’t eat it. Unfortunately the porcupines could climb and had a lovely meal. Kas also had a good present during the his sleep; a bat shit on his head (hahaha)!

The next day we visited another cave – which was even more full of bats then the cave we slept in. Beautiful to see those animals. Those bats are not the ‘vampire bats’ that can bite you, but the ‘fruity bats’. This cave was also the home of a snake, spiders and some scorpions.

During our hike back we saw a few giant lizzards(2,5 meters), a condor and an ant battlefield. Groups of ants were lying on the ground – dead. They probably had a territory fight. When ants are fighting, there will never be a winner. They will die both due to the poison that they inject to each other. Fascinating story.

Luckily or unfortunately – we are not sure – we didn’t see the wild tigers, panters and elephants who are living in this jungle.

We had a noodle-lunch at the river, a small swim ánd Julian cathed a fish – as happy as a kid with his own catched lunch.

We started the last part of our hike, I was so happy we arrived. We took the boat to a small East-African village that’s living in the jungle. We got a small explanation about how they live. As soon as we had to go back by boat to our hostel it was raining cats and dogs. Well, at least our 20 minute boat trip (without roof), was very refreshing.

Writing this in the bus from Taman Negara to Cameron Highlands, we are ready for another adventure.

Day 12 / 16. Beijing – China

15 – 19 April Beijing – China

We arrived in Beijing After the last spectaculair China landscapes from the train.

In Beijing we stayed in the hotel Xin Yuan Inn, located in the middle of the Hutong area (Hutongs are area’s with many narrow streets). Since the mid-20th century, the number of Beijing hutongs dropped dramatically as they are demolished to make way for new roads and buildings. More recently, some hutongs have been designated as protected areas in an attempt to preserve this aspect of Chinese cultural history.

The start of our stay in Beijing was good; we had some beers with our train-friend Marouan. The view of the rooftop pub was fantastic. On the left we had a big lake and on the right we could see a beautiful temple. We didn’t check the menu before we ordered the beers. A few beers and the check later, we had to pay 60 euro’s for a few beers. After those drinks we had dinner a few blocks further – we had lots of food for the three of us for 8 euro’s.

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Saturday morning was – again – an early one. We booked a tour to the Great Wall with Chinahiking including a camping overnight next to the wall. The hike on the wall was amazing; I was more impressed than I expected. This wall has a length of 6.000 km. We had beautiful views; the wall was always around us and the most special part was that we hiked an abandoned part of the wall. We didn’t see any other tourists.
The thought that people worked on this wall for more than 2000 years made me realize how impressive this place is. All the hard work to win the fight against the Mongolians.

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After a 6 hour hike and just before sunset we created a small tent village next to the wall (to use the wall as cover for the hard wind). We enjoyed the view with Hans – a man from Norway – and our guide Heidi. Heidi is born in Mongolia but lives with her Belgium husband in Beijing. They are the owners of Chinahiking. Heidi’s English is perfect, she is sweet and most of all; very funny. Heidi brought a ‘white wine’ to keep us warm. We took a zip from this ‘white wine’ and we understood what she said about the wine keeping us warm. This wasn’t white wine but pure alcohol; hello 46%. Heidi told us this is the Chinese white wine, they drink it during dinner or in the morning as breakfast;). Crazy Chinese people.

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Unfortunately finishing the white wine didn’t help us sleep – the ground was rocky and it was cold. Waking up seeing the sunrise made us all forget about the cold and the bad sleep; it was a fairytale. The birds woke up, the sun showed up behind the mountains and shined her light on the great wall. Ready for a new day.


In the afternoon we walked home through Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District (near Lama Temple) for a coffee at Kitchen & Co. You can compare this street with the 9 streets in Amsterdam. Lovely shops and lots of great coffee places and restaurants. We ended this day in a hipster bar/restaurant called 4Corners. Great food (including sweet potatofries), all different kind of beers and a very nice owner.

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Monday we traveled to the Summer Palace with thousands of other tourists. The only difference between us; we were blond, tall and didn’t have a selfiestick – even men were walking proudly with their pink selfiestick. Walking was a challenge; there was a big change you’d be hit by a selfiestick and people wanted to make pictures of us. We found out there are two types of Chinese paparazzi.

1. The sneaky ones. They do a small run so they are in front of you, grab their selfiestick and make a picture. They smile carefully to you and run away – cheering.

2. The ones with currage. They ask if they can make a picture. After permission they aare as happy as a kid. Don’t expect only children asking this, we got this question especially from people above the 40.

Kasper thought about asking an euro for every picture that was made, we would be rich by now if that would have worked ;-).

Tuesday we prepared ourselves again for the paparazzi because the Forbidden City was waiting for us. They told us to be on time; they have a visitors maximum. They only allow 80.000 people (80.000 people!!). Despite all those people everything went super smooth. The Forbidden City is great to see and eveywhere you walk you see something beautiful. The Chinese love small details.

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We didn’t expect anything of Beijing and it was the first time in China for the both of us. After a few days in this city we can tell we fell a bit in love. For everybody who is planning to go here; please do! The people are amazingly friendly – a bit weird though due to their habits but that’s just because we are not used to it -, the food is super tasty and the thing I liked the most is the variaty of this city. You want real Chinese? Possible. Are you looking for Western places? They have plenty. Rather have a hipster place? They have enough. You love crowded streets? Or you like to have no people around you? Seriously, they have it all.
A bit difficult is the Chinese language and the fact they don’t talk any English. Difficult with ordering in a restaurant – always a surprise what dinner will be – but also when you are looking for the toilet. The word toilet or wc isn’t in their vocabulairy. Luckily they have public toilets on every corner (notice; there are no doors between the toilets)- seen the fact I need to pie a thousand times a day, this is totaly my city.

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So this is not a goodbye but a see you soon. Beijing thanks for beiing so great – Kuala Lumpur here we come!

Day 7-12. Ulaanbaatar – Mongolia

Ulaanbaatar – Mongolia + last part of the Trans Mongolia Express. 10-04-2016 // 15-04-2016

After our arrival in Ulaanbaatar on Sunday morning we wanted to do 2 things: take a shower and a good coffee. The shower was lovely and we felt so clean! Next step was finding a coffee place. Our hotel – the dream hotel – was in the middle of the center. Suprisingly the center was not as crowded as we expected, so it was easy to explore. On Monday we realized it wasn’t common to see an empty street – weekend was over.

The coffee place we found is named Caffè Bene and you have a few of them in Ulaanbaatar. It reminded me a bit of Starbucks but with a different brand name ;-). For dinner we went to a restaurant (named Sparta) around the corner of our hotel. The food was good and cheap, only 4 euro’s for a meal!

For Monday we booked a tour with Ulaanbaatar tours. We started the day with a one hour drive to a fascinating statue of Chinggis Khan. This statue is 40 meters high and is a memorial of the man who was the founder and Great Khan of the Mongol Empire, which became the largest contiuous empire in history after his demise. Besides watching this amazing statue from the outside, there is also a possibily to take a look inside. You can go inside to enjoy the view upstairs but there’s also a shop and a small ‘museum’ part. Our guide arranged something special for us – something Kas and I really enjoyed;). They gave us real Mongolian clothes and we had to take place in a ger so they could take pictures of us. The people working here but also the other visitors had more fun about this then we did. Can you imagine; two long blond dutchies with a white skin dressing like Mongolian people?

Anyways, the statue was beautiful and so was the view as soon as we reached the top. All this nature, so many unused square meters. You can not even imagine how streched out the nature is. Mongolia has 3 million inhabitants, the half of this population lives in Ulaanbaatar. So it’s not strange Mongolia has so much nature and space.

From the statue we drove to the National Park. The first stop here was at the turtle rock; nothing more then a big rock, that looks like a turtle. Funny to see how they make something out of a rock and sell this as a ‘special thing you need to see’. As long as you use your fantasies there’s an animal in every rock.

In the afternoon there was a real adventure waiting for us; horseriding. Yes – this will surprise the people who know me. It was great! Allthough I had the naughty one – of course – who refused to walk or to listen a few times. The nature around us was spectacular, it felt like we were in the middle of a painting.

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The horseriding came to an end. I said goodbye to the naughty horse – I was thankful he brought me here safe – and I started the hike to the monastery. The view on the top was – again – wonderful. The monastery can be used by everybody who wants to meditate but is not used by monks anymore. In the past the monks went here to meditate for 3 months up to 6 years. Can you even imagine you sit on the ground for years and years, everyday in a row?

Tuesday morning a driver picked us up and it was time to prepare ourselves for two days at a Nomad Family. After 2 hours we saw three gers and many animals. We met the family; Choka the dad, Oanna the mom, Patoka the 4 year old kid and 3 big dogs. They gave us a happy welcome. We were the third guests they ever had: the first one was the Dutch king Willem-Alexander and his wife Máxima, the second was Ban Ki-moon and now we are the lucky ones!

Oanna welcomed us with a cup of hot milk with salt – something they all drink in Mongolia to stay strong. Their ger looked like a small museum. They had 2 beds, a heater which is warmed on coals and a small sink. The toilet was outside and contained a hole in the ground and 4 wooden planks covering it.

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Oanna made us a real Mongolian lunch: soup with flower and meat – not my favorite – and noodles with vegetables. This first day we did a few hikes (the three dogs came with us as guards), played with the kid and enjoyed being around the animals. Being here during spring is amazing; they had lots of small goats and Tuesday morning a calf was born. How cute!

In the evening all the animals – except the horses – came back home. This family has over a thousand (!) animals. After this fascinating proces I helped Oanna making dumplings for dinner.

The next morning we woke up early and saw the sunrise. Everything was covered in white because it snowed during the night- the weather is unpredictable. After lunch we said goodbye to this great family and returned to the crowded city.

We didn’t finish the Trans Mongolia Express, the end of our trip was Beijing. Thursday morning we took the train again and this time we did share the cabin with two others; a Dutch couple from Groningen. Small world ;). The train was different then the previous; the beds were softer, the coupes were cleaner, they had two toilets ánd toiletpaper- so luxury!

After a couple of hours In the train I felt something on my head, I asked Kas to take a look but he wasn’t sure; was it a birthmark or something else? We asked Robin and Els – the Dutch couple – to take a look. Unfortunately it wasn’t a birthmark, but it was a tick. Robin – the tic expert – pulled it out of my head. Nasty, nasty animals! We organized afternoon drinks – with our train friends – to forget about the tick.

Anyways, I’m warned and will check every spot on my body from now on. Luckily it’s now time to go to the big city (hopefully without ticks);Beijing! We can almost touch it, only 5 more hours to go..

Day 3-7: Trans Mongolia Express

Trans Mongolia Express 05-04-2016 – 10-04-2016

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We booked 2 beds in a 4 persons cabin (a private cabin was too expensive) for the train from Moscow to Ulaanbaatar. As soon as the conductor showed us our ‘room’ I was a bit shocked. I expected it to be small, but this? When we booked it we expected the rooms to be bigger but there’s no way you can stand here with 4 people at the same time – just to mention the room was 2 meters by 1.5 meter. The train left at 11.45 pm and Kas and I were lucky – we were still with the two of us in the 4 persons cabin.

The first night was horrible – the bed is hard, it’s the same feeling as lying on the ground. Besides this, the train is moving, makes quite some noise and stopped that night every three hours.

Because of the low season the train is almost empty – except from our coupe. We share the toilet and the sink – yes we couldn’t shower for 5 days – with 10 other people. With some of those people we had drinks together a couple of times – fascinating to see how easily you meet people. For example the conversation with Clautilde – a French girl – she loved the people in Moscow. She told us she learned a bit Russian – just the basic part – before visiting this city. Everytime she spoke Russian, they smiled and helped her out. So maybe a good tip if you are planning to go to Moscow; learn the language.

Speaking about Clautilde, she also has a blog, but not like we expect. She doesn’t write stories, she draws them. And they are amazing. It’s defenitely worth a look. You can find it here!

There’s not much to do in the train besides reading, sleeping, watching the beautiful nature and small talks. Sometimes the train stops at a station – it depends how long, from 5 to 25 minutes -then you are able to go out. It’s good to have some fresh air, stretch your legs and you can buy some food at the small shops of the station or you can buy some food from local woman. Almost every stop they are waiting for the trains to come, with a car of homemade food. You should try this out – its cheap and tasty – defenitely better then the food that they sell in the train.

Among all the young people we had a special and cute neighbour; a baby girl of 2 years old. When she came in we were a bit surprised; 2 years old and 5 whole days in the train? Isn’t it asking for a crying kid? But it turned out to be the opposite, a sweet all day laughing girl. She was traveling with her mom from Mongolia (their home town) to Moscow and now they are traveling back home. Everyday she brought a visit to everybody in the coupe. Playing, singing and talking all day long. Those 5 days we only heard her cry as soon as she had to go to bed – she loved being around all the people.

Another special person we’ve met in the train is Martin; a 75 year old man from Switzerland. Martin doesnt’t want to take the plane because of the pollution. He did this traintrip 3 times already and loves it, in the train he finds the time and rest to learn Chinese and Spanish and play some violin. One night he gave us a small concert, amazing! He is also a great story teller based on all the amazing things he experienced. He negotiated for exemple during the cold war in Russia with Gorbatsjov.

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You can say this train trip was special. Sometimes I was a bit restless; wanted to go outside, have a long walk and after 4 days I looked forward to a nice shower. The sleeping part was only rough the first night, you get used to it and I loved the flow of the train – I will miss it when I will sleep in a normal bed again. The thing I loved the most about this train were the people; it felt like we were one group of friends, traveling all together.

Now it’s time to explore Mongolia till Thursday, then we will take the train to Bejing!

Do you’ve any plans making this train trip? Please make sure you take this stuff with you:
– Food! This one is important. Somebody told me we should take some snacks and food. We are so happy we did. The food in the train is not very tasty and expensive. We took some brown bread, fruits, crackers, nuts, chocolate and ginger (perfect to make some tea)
– Washcloth. Seriously, otherwise you will smell yourself after a few days.
– Toilet paper. Something that’s not available in the train so make it yourself comfortable and bring enough.
– Cards / games. After 2 days of doing nothing you will be happy you brought some games. It’s also a good way to meet people.
– An external charger. There are just a few charging points which are not always working. You will be bored when your Ereader is out of battery, believe me.
– Water. There are days when they don’t have cold water anymore. Boiled water is always available, so you can cool this down if you like.
– Flipflops. The toilet is not clean, so do yourself a favour and put something on your feet.

Day 1+2. Goodbyes & Moscow – Russia.

Moscow: 04-04-2016 // 05-04-2016

Monday the 4th of April, time to start our journey. So excited to discover the world but also a bit nervous; what are we going to do coming year? The hardest part of this Monday was to say ‘goodbye’ to my mom. But as soon as we ended our hugging and dried our tears, I was ready to go! After a few hours we were airborn from Amsterdam to Moscow.

We booked the first part of our trip with Tiara Tours, it was easier to book the Trans Mongolia Express with an organisation as Tiara. They’ve arranged everything for us; transfers, hostels, excursions, the train, the stop in Mongolia and our VISA. The hotel they booked for the first night was Maxima Hotels. A hotel 20 minutes from the city center of Moscow. Clean, not to big and the rooms were fine – it had everything you need.

Tuesday the 5th of April we explored Moscow with our guide. She took us with the metro to the heart of Moscow. I truly recommend to travel by metro when you are in Moscow. Due to the 11 million (!) inhabitants there are always traffic jams and it will take you hours to get to your destination. The metros in Moscow go every minute – seriously – and besides it is easier, it’s also very beautiful. The metro stations all look like musea – made by Jozef Stalin to impress the world after World War 2. Also to show the citizens a bright future – marble walls, beautiful chandeliers and golden decorations.

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The guide – Elena – showed us the Historical museum, the red square, the Kremlin, the St. Basil’s Cathedral and the lovely shoppingcentre GUM. The red square was absolutely impressive and I loved all the colors of the St. Basil’s Cathedral. We had lunch in the GUM, which you should visit if you are in Moscow. Besides those must-sees this city is a museum itself. The buildings are build in Barok style but all in different shapes and pastel colors.

One of the most impressive things today was passing the side where Boris Nemtsov – a very important Russian politician and criticaster of Putin – was murdered. The reason behind his dead is still not revealed. These moments makes you realize you are just a small ant in the big world.

While we were impressed by the city, we didn’t really like the people. They have a very closed personality and nobody smiled.

After dinner at the hotel we relaxed a bit and at 11.45 pm it was time to take the train. Honestly – I was a bit nervous, something we wanted to do so badly, but how will we actually experience it?

Quit your job & go backpacking

For a long time I wondered: “What do I really want? What do I want with my life? With my job?” I started to work for a Dutch television company in The Hague and had a good time. Even though my colleagues were fun and I learned a lot, all this time I knew this wasn’t my dream. I wasn’t born for this kind of work. I switched jobs in September 2015 to work for a great company in Amsterdam city center. It was such a relief hopping on a bike instead of a one hour drive.

It was a job with new experiences, new challenges, great people and a lovely working environment. But I still had the feeling something was missing.  kasnick2

A few years ago I talked about travelling the world one day with my boyfriend Kasper. Make a trip together and leave everything behind. “Maybe in a couple of years” is what we said. When I told Kas I was a bit restless, he told me he felt the same. And that people.. was a big relief. Every single day, my day feels the same. I wake up, go to my work, come home, have some dinner and go to bed. I don’t want to live like this at the moment. It’s not challenging enough.

After talking together for a couple of days – yes we did make this decision in a couple of days – we decided to make a one year worldtrip. ONE YEAR! We will have one year to do whatever we want. We resigned from our jobs, found a new place for our cat and booked a ticket. I felt the adrenaline running through my body. A feeling that I didn’t feel for a long – long time.

On the 4th of April 2016 our plane goes to Moskou – Russia. From here we will take the Trans Siberian express to Bejing. And afterwards? We will see.. One thing we don’t want is making plans. I think ‘We will see’ is our new motto this year.

Do you want to know what we are doing and where we are? Please take a look at this website, we will keep you posted!

Previous. Winterwonderland – Lapland (Sweden)

21-01-2016 / 28-02-2016. Sweden – Sarkimukka.

Sunday the 21th of February our unique trip to Lapland was starting. Destination: Pinetree lodge, Sarkimukka – Sweden.

 Monday. 

The first day I woke up crazy early – I was so excited. Today it was husky day! The Pinetree Lodge has 134 Husky dogs and 1 small new inhabitant: a Christmas Puppy. I was surprised when they told us we were allowed to control the sleigh ourselves. One person was allowed to sit in the sleigh and the other had to stand behind to steer. What an amazing experience! The barking dogs, the crackle of the snow and the sleigh is the only thing you hear. The view is unreal, everything is white. The waters, the trees.. Everything is covered with 2 meters of snow.

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It was lunchtime already, so we secured the dogs and saw a small, wooden house. Our lunch location! The wooden house was not bigger then 2 by 2 meters and we were able to make a fire inside – there was a hole in the roof. While we were watching the view – the white landscape – we enjoyed a warm soup, a tea and a cinnamon bun, a real Swedish delicacy. After this lunch we prepared ourselves for a 2,5 hour journey back to the lodge.

Tuesday.

I’m not really a walking person – I don’t understand when people tell me they just had a ‘lovely walk in the mountains’. But when they told me we were going to walk in the mountains with rackets, I could imagine that would be fun with all this snow. In the end it wasn’t really walking. It was more a fall-stand-throw-a-snowball-fall-stand-throw-another-snowball-kind-of-walk. So yes, I actually liked it. A lot. When Kas decided to go for a walk without those rackets, he totally disappeared in the snow – you can see this on the picture. After again a lovely lunch we had the pleasure on meeting the four-legged residents of the country: the reindeers. Here we experienced the reindeers are not only very tasty, but also very special and friendly ;).

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Wednesday.


An active morning was waiting for us. After a solid breakfast we walked to the trail of the Buggy Race. The one with the fastest round was the winner of the day. My first round wasn’t that fast, but after my third round I really had the feeling I was driving insanely fast – and yes, I felt quite cool about it. Unfortunately my fastest round was 1.37 minute and I was one of the slowest of the day – great. The fastest time was 1.20 and it wasn’t Kas.. He became second with a speed of 1.22 minute – Kas always wants to win so you can imagine he was a bit disappointed;).

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After dinner it was snow scooter time! With those incredible fast and crazy cool scooters we drove to an open space where you can see the Northernlight  very clear – if the Northerlight is there. It was super cloudy and the chance of seeing the Northernlight was minimum. But in the end, driving on a snow scooter in the dark was a great experience. We made a fire and a couch of snow and enjoyed the darkness & the cold. It was actually quite comfortable for a night picnic in –20.

Thursday. 

Because we enjoyed the snow scooters so much the evening before – we could drive those the whole day today! The plan was to drive to the Snowy Mountains. This is quite a drive and the guide decided to drive over the big lake (you can drive fast because you don’t have any obstacles). Because he was driving so fast and I was behind him – I did the same. We drove only between the 35 and the 45 km/h but I had the feeling I was almost flying.

When we stopped for a small break, the rest of the group didn’t come. The guide took his snow scooter and went looking for the other part of the group. The guide find them quite fast but they were all stuck in the water. Because of the pressure of the snow on the ice, the ice became watery. If you cross over it a few times there’s a change you get stuck. And so they did. After 1 hour all the snow scooters were out and half of the group had wet feet. We decided to go to a wooden house close by to warm ourselves again. For the ones who are wondering – we didn’t make it to the Snowy Mountains, but this was a great experience as well.

 

And today was full of great experiences. During dinner we saw a group of people running away. This was the sign. Before we knew the whole restaurant was outside and there it was: The Northernlight. The sky was super dark, there were many, many stars and a part of the sky was coloring dark green. It was moving all the time and for unexperienced photographers: unshootable. But we saw it. And it was AMAZING!

Friday.


When I woke up I wasn’t so sure about today’s program. We started the day with Ice fishing – ice fishing? It doesn’t sound like my kind of thing, I’m super impatience. And we ended the day with a Cross Country Skiing tour. Jup. Interesting day.

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The ice fishing was fun – for an hour – and we did even catch a fish! Afterwards it was time for the Cross Country Skiing part . I’m not a super good skier, but I can ski a bit so I expected that I wouldn’t have any problem with Cross Country Skiing But I can tell you: this is something really different then skiing and you can not compare those two. After this great adventure we had lunch in a Tipi – we had wraps with reindeer meat so my day couldn’t get any better .

Saturday. 

This day was supposed to be our free day, so we could plan something we liked the most. And this was a tough decision because I loved everything. When we really had to decide – we did choose the husky’s.

Today was much colder then the days before so when we returned to the lodge around 3pm I didn’t mind at all. Everything was frozen and I was super cold. The first day in Lapland it was around –10 and today it was –29.

To all good things comes an end – also to this amazing and special holiday. It was a fairytale.